Jakob Tennstedt - Perlmutt Riesling 2018
Perlmutt, for me, shows a very unique style of fruit, moving in to a stone fruit spectrum but with untold levels of detail beyond that. This sits on the palate in a different way to the other two wines in this release with perhaps less gravity and, at this stage, a less deep expression of minerality but with more primary, crystalline fruit. Spectacularly delicious.
This is the estate of former Berlin based chef Jakob Tennstedt. After stints in Burgundy and at Foradori and Pian dell’Orino in Italy, Jakob returned home to Germany and settled in the village of Traben-Trarbach (Mosel).
Today he farms three sites in the Kautenbachtal valley, just off the Middle Mosel. The terroir here is the classic Mosel slate of soft grey and blue schist. The main difference to the rest of the Mosel is the elevation here (around 400m, giving a greater diurnal temperature variation) and protection from the wind. Harvest here typically occurs two weeks later than the rest of the Mosel. The vineyard age ranges from 40-110 years with around 50% on own roots.
Jakob is strongly focussed on vineyard health and biodiversity. The vineyard is organic and will soon be certified biodynamic. The applications are based on extractions of herbs found growing in the vineyard.
The winemaking is minimal and not rushed, with patience being the most important factor. The wines are pressed to large foudre of local woods before being rested for 18 months prior to bottling. Each cuvee is a bottling of a single section of the vineyard, however which selection is bottled varies each year.